it's really a function of the mount on the 250 frame I don't have the jello issues on my Protek25 that being said I'm going to be using different quads with the 03 air units on my next trip. I might take a GoPro bones but I had forgot to bring it

thanks thanks....love your build too, so clean and well build, mime nothing compare to your.
nice to

cheers! Those are truerc - one is a flat 2.4 dipole and one is a long 'bardpole'

Thanks for the comment! I've found airmode can really mess with whoops and toothpicks that have high power/weight ratio when you're hovering close to the ground or are just taking off. From what I've seen airmode keeps seeking an equilibrium and tends to 'bounce' a lot at ground-effect height. I am using bluejay with bidirection dshot and default filtering. I haven't setup dynamic idle but I might give it a shot.

just wondering but does disabling airmode still allow 0% throttle maneuvers? I remember that it was initially placed in BF to allow the drone to still have control at 0% throttle but would you still need that with dynamic idle on?

i would think so from a theoretical perspective but I'd ask on betaflight slack or discord or whatever they use if you want to know for sure. But I'm pretty sure air mode raises (or lowers at full throttle) individual throttles to keep motor differentials able to control the quad. dynamic idle is more like a blheli_32 setting in that it keeps the motor spinning a certain rpm to avoid desyncs while allowing the motor to be driven at a lower throttle setting when rpms are still high to quicken deceleration. so airmode raises overall throttle to keep the differences in motor speed useful, dynamic idle only effects each individual motor. with air mode off and dynamic idle on your props wouldn't stop but you would still lose authority at low throttle.

That was a great explanation! I never really thought of it that way but it makes total sense! I guess both are still important to keep then but Thank you very much for the explanation! but that still begs the question. Is it worth removing airmode when for those smaller type of quads with high power/weight ratios?

I'm not sure if turning off air mode is the right call since i don't fly anything like that. but what you're probably looking for is this https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight/wiki/4.3-Tuning-Notes#Linear-and-Dynamic-mixer-options. it's made to help with things like bouncing off the ground and lots off similar issues i think.

put the build up bro! i gotta see it!

I am glad you enjoy reading my builds and I hope it helps you with your build! I just updated to the AOS 5 with a NEW camera mount, but have not had a chance to test it yet. Good luck with your build and let me know if you have any questions.

Honestly, thats pretty close to the truth in my personal opinion!

Thanks for your comment! I just used longer screws and fixed the two frames at the motor mounts and the stack mount. Additional, I put some magic damping grease between the frames. It's so sticky that the frames are bond together and it helps to reduce vibration!

well thank you. 4.30-5min at the minimum, always. Infact this is currently my daily during the winter. the 1204s are perfect for this size and weight. tried 1106 shortly but that was no success, too nervous low on throttle.

yes i have and it's fine.

1. FPV is dead
2. Nobody wants to watch your FPV video
3. You really DON'T Want to be in the Youtube Monetizatio program.
   xjet and every other youtuber is right, it's a bad joke, disable those ads and opt out, you can't make a dime on Youtube. Read my pinnned video comment for more info on just how shitty Youtube is. Did I mention, brutal comment censorship?
4. Get a job at Taco Bell and then quit after 5 minutes, and you'll make more with that one and only paycheck than I'eve ever made creating 500 videos for Youtube over 15 years.

   hatersBhatin

You are right about me rotating the ESC 180 degrees so I can run the power cable to the front. As for the ESC to FC cable, the one I had was just long enough so I did not need to get a longer one. You can get a DIY wiring kit to build your own cable if yours is too short. I have purchased this kit at least 5 times because I build a lot of different quads: https://pyrodrone.com/products/diy-sh-silicone-cable-kit

Make sure you file/sand the edges of the carbon fiber where any wires comes in contact too because over time it the sharp edges on the carbon fiber can cut through the silicon and create a short. The same goes with the battery strap, the point of failure is where the strap meets the frame. To be safe, make sure you file/sand it under a bath of water so the dust does NOT get air born and you breath it in.

I just noticed that Pyrodrone does not have the wires set in stock. You can get a similar kit at RDQ too: https://www.racedayquads.com/products/sh-1-0-silicone-cable-set?keyword=SILICONE%20CABLE%20KIT

Beware of the 2 different kits RDQ has, just get the one that works for you. In most cases, the "JST-SH Only" is all you need.